A Cheapskate’s Weekend in Prague Part 6: Brunch, Beer And Culture Lost

We did not get off to the best of starts as a combination of Google maps and my terrible sense of direction almost caused us to miss our brunch reservation. Let’s say that our walk to Eska was not the best. From the hotel it was past a bit of car park, under some railway bridges, a bus station, down some dirty alleyway and finally along a quiet residential street next to the side of a railway line with a building site at the end of the road. About half an hour later than planned we made it in to Eska and they kindly found us a table despite the place being pretty busy.

The atmosphere inside was buzzy and a little bit hipster with open kitchens, simple wooden furniture which nicely complemented the unfinished warehouse vibe they were aiming for. The wait staff in blue jeans and white shirts buzzed up and down the stairs. We were seated upstairs close to the kitchen area where we could watch the pastry chefs hard at work. We were kindly given English menus and some fresh bread and butter.

Anne-So chose the Breakfast Karlín consisting of salmon trout, vegetables, egg, granola, herbs, sweet curd cheese, fruits and soft drink whilst I went with an omelette and some French toast. We also took a couple of coffees.

Our friendly server soon brought over our delicious coffees and shortly after our breakfasts. 

Once again I had definitely over ordered. I can’t remember the last time I had such a good breakfast omelette. Eggs just set, cheese melted and fresh smoked ham. Perfection on a plate just how my Grandad used to do it. 


The Best French Toast I’ve Ever Had In My Life

In all fairness this eggy perfection was soon outshone by the French toast. Sugary soft bread with sweet caramelised apples. It was certainly one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever eaten. Anne-So felt much the same and even found space for a few bites of French toast, but in all honesty who could resist a mouthful of that.

Stuffed to bursting once again, it was time to leave. We settled up and managed the five minute walk to the metro station for the next part of our Prague adventure.

We Really Should Have Taken The Metro
Just Look How Wonderful The Stations Look

We planned to spend the bulk of our day touring the Jewish part of Prague. It was quite a moving afternoon with all but one of the synagogues you could visit now a museum, each depicting a different part of Jewish life and history in Prague from life to death and renewal. Whatever your religious (or otherwise) background it made for quite an emotional day.

Perhaps the hardest thing is seeing a whole way of life almost completely wiped out, left only as a museum. The difference here is that what was lost was a thriving community on our doorstep and in our recent history, not an alien civilisation from another time that is hard to relate to. At least with these buildings preserved we can never forget what happened and who existed in this place.

After what had been an emotional morning, stepping into shoes impossible to truly walk in, because to walk in them would be to consign yourself to death we needed to unwind a little. To do so we went for an average coffee and cake at that famous touristic, cubist masterpiece called Grand Café Orient. 

I did my best to camouflage with the decor with my favourite green checked shirt. It was good to rest our legs and we also managed to check in for our flight with seq 0001 and 0002 and seats 1A and 1C snagged. Geek goals met in full! Look it up if you don’t understand and then regret it afterwards, but whatever, it made me happy after all that pain we’d walked through.

We headed off to view the hotch-potch of shops and buildings that lead from the old town up to famous Wenceslas Square. 

Unfortunately the National Museum atop the square was covered in scaffold whilst under renovation. 

We then finished our days walk through a quite bizarre shopping precinct, some more beautiful buildings and rest in the park. I love to travel time and space, the juxtaposition of old and new is what makes me fall in love with a place. The Lucerna was quite an incredible find from our guidebook, truly a step into a lost generation, but thankfully still very much alive.

We headed back to the hotel for a brief rest before heading out to Lokal Hamburk for a spot of dinner. Unfortunately the branch of Lokal next to the hotel was fully booked so we went to the one near where we had breakfast, this time making the sensible decision to take the underground.

Once Again, I Love These Metro Stations

We arrived at Lokal to find a mix of rowdy locals and shy tourists but soon felt at home once a couple of cold ones were slammed down with affection on the table. 

Just What Was Needed After A Day Of Time Travelling

We ordered the famous fried cheese, braised beef and beef goulash with a side of mash. It would have been nice to try more but the portions were bigger than they looked and a lot of the food had run out. What we did have was tasty and incredibly good value for money. I even found room to squeeze in a dessert.

Never Say No To Chocolate

We enjoyed a slow moonlit walk back to the metro station for the short ride back to the Hilton and soon fell sound asleep.

A Cheapskate’s Weekend in Prague Index

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